Burgundy: Premier cru status, grand cru quality

Things change, even in stately Burgundy, and producers in the region are free to apply for a vineyard’s status to be upgraded, if the quality justifies it. But what are their chances? Stephen Brook assesses the promotion prospects of the seven most likely premier cru candidates, north to south, recommending two wines from each...

The French love rules, and even try to regulate their language through the Académie Française. Agriculture is less well adapted to rules and stratification, yet vineyards across France are assessed and regulated. The Burgundy hierarchy of vineyards is less rigid than the Bordeaux classification of 1855 that identified the top brands. But just because a particular vineyard is capable of producing wines that can reach grand cru quality does not mean it will be a shoo-in for promotion.